NORMAL PEOPLE - DASH & ROSS

Intro and interview by Carolina Pasini
Photos by Cassie Abraham

Ross McQuinn and Dash Rumble are the dynamic duo behind Canberra’s fine dining institution Pilot and newer kid on the block Such and Such. From humble beginnings at Canberra’s eightysix restaurant to becoming two of the city’s most prominent restaurateurs, Ross and Dash are all about showcasing the region’s exceptional produce while building spaces that feel both intentional and welcoming.

In the last Normal People instalment of 2024, our friends share the nuances of balancing quality and consistency in a turbulent Aussie hospitality landscape, the creative spark behind Such and Such, and how the tight-knit Canberra community makes big dreams feel achievable. They also dive into the challenges faced by the Australian hospitality sector—from rising costs to improving workplace conditions—and offer insights for those who want to support local, independent venues.

Whether it’s their ‘quality over quantity’ mindset, the collaborative magic of weekly team meetings, or a good old-fashioned reality TV binge after a long day, Ross and Dash prove that staying grounded, adaptable, and community-focused is the secret to surviving and thriving in today’s hospitality scene.

CP | Firstly, can you share a little about yourselves and how you got into hospitality?

Dash Rumble: My parents were always great cooks, and food was a big focus in our house, but I didn’t have any experience in hospitality until I went to dinner at a restaurant in Canberra and got offered a job at eightsix, which was about to open. I ended up loving it, worked there for five years, and managed the front-of-house team.

Ross McQuinn: That’s actually where we met. I was bartending while at uni and wound up at eightsix to learn more about the food side of things as well. We also met our current business partner, Mal, there—who we were lucky enough to convince to open a restaurant with us.

CP | Heaps Normal was also born in Canberra/Ngunnawal Country, but it might not be the first place people think of for the Aussie food and drink scene. What does Canberra bring to the table? Why do you think it has birthed so many great restaurants and products?

RM: We’re incredibly lucky in Canberra to be so close to amazing produce and producers. It’s the bush capital, with wineries, farms, and so much more just a stone’s throw away. We can visit the makers, hear their stories, and bring that connection to the experience of serving their products.

DR: Canberra has come such a long way in the past 15 years. People are catching on and choosing to move here or stay, and naturally, venues and products are emerging to support that growth. It also helps that the community here is small and supportive. We got so much advice and help from others, which made the leap to opening a restaurant feel less daunting.

CP | Talk to us about the concept for Such and Such. How did you land on it?

DR: Both Ross and I love going to the theatre, and we noticed there weren’t many options catering to that crowd. We work closely with the Canberra Theatre to know what’s playing, and we’re lucky to have a steady stream of pre- and post-show diners.

RM: We wanted Such to feel different from Pilot. Originally, pre-COVID, we looked at the site when Pilot was à la carte, planning to make Such the fancy degustation spot. Post-lockdown, when we turned Pilot into a set-menu restaurant, we reimagined Such as something more casual—a space that could adapt to however the guest wanted to use it: snacks, special occasions, or a quick bite.

CP | This isn’t your first rodeo, having started Pilot., a Canberra fine-dining institution. How has your time there shaped what you wanted to do differently—or keep the same—at Such and Such?

DR: Both restaurants share a similar approach to service and food, but Pilot. is definitely more elevated. We’re lucky the three of us have a clear vision of how we want things to run, so hopefully, that comes across.

RM: Given the similarities, we wanted to distinguish the two visually. Pilot. is more subdued and homely, while Such is punchier, with bright colors and textures. Even the way we write the menus and copy for the venues is intentionally different.

CP | What’s your favorite part of the space? Is there a feature you’re particularly proud of?

DR: I love the terrazzo tile floor. We were over polished concrete everywhere and wanted something distinct. Mark from MyMyMy did an incredible job—it’s a work of art.

RM: During construction, we considered cutting the floor to save costs but are so glad we kept it. Working with Mark was special since he’s been a close friend for years. Supporting each other’s businesses made it even more rewarding.

CP | If you could go back to the early days of planning Such and Such, what’s one piece of advice you’d give yourselves?

DR: Spend less money, haha.

RM: Yes, that would have been handy.

CP | Aussie hospitality is facing tough times, with venues closing or reducing hours. How are you managing with Such and Such and Pilot.?

DR: I always say that a good restaurant is consistent. We try to make sure that everyday we are being consistent and intentional with everything we do.

RM: We prioritize quality over quantity. Even during tough times, we never cut corners on produce because that quality is central to our vision.

DR: You also need to be adaptable. If patterns shift, it’s important to analyze why and adjust to turn things around.

CP | What’s something most people don’t realize about running a successful restaurant?

RM: Guests often think we show up an hour before opening, haha—not the case! Like all owner-operated businesses, you wear many hats. One day you’re fixing toilets; the next, you’re a wine expert or paying bills on your day off. It’s all-consuming but rewarding.

DR: We also keep a close eye on external factors, like the weather. If it’s windy or raining, we need a backup plan because those conditions affect guest behavior—early diners run late, late diners show up early. Only open a restaurant if you’re fully committed!

CP | We’ve all watched The Bear. How close is it to reality? And how do you unwind after a crazy day?

DR: Watching that was stressful.

RM: Agreed. It hit close to home.

DR: We often don't finish work at the same time. If I have had a big night, honestly, it's straight to bed. However, I do have an affinity for incredibly trashy reality tv so might pop that on to zone out a bit.

RM: I’m lucky not to finish late too often. If I’ve had a tough day, I’ll go for a run or swim to clear my head.

CP | Post-COVID, hospitality has changed a lot. What’s been the biggest adjustment for you as business owners?

DR: Being prepared for anything. Ross does an amazing job managing finances—without him, we’d be in trouble.

CP | How do you stay true to your vision while keeping things fresh for guests?

RM: The three of us (Mal, Dash and I) meet up once a week and discuss all things related to the restaurants, catch up and also speak about our future. I think this is really important for us to hold each other accountable and share ideas for the future.

DR: We are always open and honest with each other and I think that's really important. We also make sure we are going out and experiencing things whether it be bars, restaurants or even art, movies and nature. You can find ideas and inspiration anywhere.

CP | With two successful venues, where do you see Canberra’s food scene heading? Any dreams for venue number three?

RM: We have always spoken about more venues. We definitely think we have more to contribute and different things to say. My biggest concern is rising costs make it prohibitively expensive for young, independent, owner operators to open.

DR: And they’re usually the venues that excite us the most.

RM: 100%. I think about opening Pilot now and I’m not sure we’d be able to do it financially. 

DR: Money has always been an issue for us (like most people I guess). We do have a lot of things to share, and I hope that the younger generation of hospitality professionals get a chance to share their ideas as well. I agree with Ross, it's tough out there.

CP | For holiday travelers, what’s one meaningful way to support independent venues?

DR: I think doing your research, like with a lot of things, voting with your wallet and supporting people that you align with is how we keep the good ones going.

RM: I agree, there are so many options out there, and now with publications like SMH presenting articles on the culture of hospitality I think it's important to be aware of where you are eating and what you are supporting.

CP | To wrap it up, what’s something that isn’t normal now but should be—or vice versa?

DR: I might cheat a bit and say something that is currently normal, but shouldn’t be. We’re seeing revelations about sexual harassment, assault, and generally poor working conditions in hospitality - it’s been like that forever, and we need to make sure that this isn’t normal. People shouldn’t feel unsafe coming to work.

RM: There’s some great groups out there working for change. Our friend Caitlin runs Venus Vinifera which is doing some amazing things. Not So Hospitable in Adelaide, Women and Revolution in Sydney. There’s a groundswell, but we all need to do more.

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